Jun 292014


On this date in 1776 Mission San Francisco de Asís, or Mission Dolores, the oldest surviving structure in San Francisco and the sixth religious settlement established as part of the California chain of missions, was founded by Lieutenant José Joaquin Moraga and Father Francisco Palóu, both members of the de Anza Expedition, which had been charged with bringing Spanish settlers to Alta (upper) California, and evangelizing the indigenous Ohlone. The settlement was named for St. Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscan Order, but was also commonly known as “Mission Dolores” because of a nearby creek named Arroyo de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (“Our Lady of Sorrows Creek”).

The original Mission consisted of a log and thatch structure. It was located near what is today the intersection of Camp and Albion Streets (according to most sources), very close to the surviving adobe Mission building, and on the shores of a lake (supposedly long since filled) called Laguna de los Dolores. An historical marker at that location depicts this lake, but whether it ever actually existed is a matter of some dispute. Creek geologists (yes, it is a profession), Janet Sowers and Christopher Richard propose that the legendary lake is the result of misunderstandings of Juan Bautista de Anza’s 1776 writings. According to their 2011 hydrological map, there were no lakes in the area, only creeks.

The present Mission church, near what is now the intersection of Dolores and 16th streets, was dedicated in 1791. At the time of dedication a mural painted by indigenous artists adorned the focal wall of the chapel. The Mission was constructed of adobe and was part of a complex of buildings used for housing, agricultural, and manufacturing enterprises. Though most of the Mission complex, including the quadrangle and convento, has either been altered or demolished outright during the intervening years, the façade of the Mission chapel has remained relatively unchanged since its construction in 1782–1791.

According to Mission historian Brother Guire Cleary, the early 19th century saw the greatest period of activity at San Francisco de Asís:

 At its peak in 1810–1820, the average Indian population at Pueblo Dolores was about 1,100 persons. The California missions were not only houses of worship. They were farming communities, manufacturers of all sorts of products, hotels, ranches, hospitals, schools, and the centers of the largest communities in the state. In 1810 the Mission owned 11,000 sheep, 11,000 cows, and thousands of horses, goats, pigs, and mules. Its ranching and farming operations extended as far south as San Mateo and east to Alameda. Horses were corralled on Potrero Hill, and the milking sheds for the cows were located along Dolores Creek at what is today Mission High School. Twenty looms were kept in operation to process wool into cloth. The circumference of the mission’s holdings were said to have been about 125 miles.


The Mission chapel, along with “Father Serra’s Church” at Mission San Juan Capistrano, is one of only two surviving buildings where Father Junípero Serra is known to have officiated (although “Dolores” was still under construction at the time of Serra’s visit). In 1817, Mission San Rafael Arcángel was established as an asistencia to act as a hospital for the Mission, though it would later be granted full mission status in 1822. The Mexican War of Independence (1810–1821) strained relations between the Mexican government and the California missions. Supplies were scant, and the Indians who worked at the missions continued to suffer terrible losses from disease and cultural disruption (more than 5,000 Indians are thought to have been buried in the cemetery adjacent to the Mission). In 1834, the Mexican government enacted secularization laws whereby most church property was sold or granted to private owners. In practical terms, this meant that the missions would hold title only to the churches, the residences of the priests and a small amount of land surrounding the church for use as gardens. In the period that followed, Mission Dolores fell on very hard times. By 1842 there were only 8 residents.


The California Gold Rush brought renewed activity to the Mission Dolores area. In the 1850s, two plank roads were constructed from what is today downtown San Francisco to the Mission, and the entire area became a popular resort and entertainment district.[14] Some of the Mission properties were sold or leased for use as saloons and gambling halls. Racetracks were constructed, and fights between bulls and bears were staged for crowds. The Mission complex also underwent alterations. Part of the convento was converted to a two-story wooden wing for use as a seminary and priests’ quarters, while another section became the “Mansion House,” a popular tavern and way station for travelers.[15] By 1876, the Mansion House portion of the convento had been razed and replaced with a large Gothic Revival brick church, designed to serve the growing population of immigrants who were now making the Mission area their home.


During this period, wood clapboard siding was applied to the original adobe chapel walls as both a cosmetic and a protective measure; the veneer was later removed when the Mission was restored. During the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, the adjacent brick church was destroyed. By contrast, the original adobe Mission, though damaged, remained in relatively good condition. However, the ensuing fire touched off by the earthquake reached almost to the Mission’s doorstep. To prevent the spread of flames, the Convent and School of Notre Dame across the street was dynamited by firefighters; nevertheless, nearly all the blocks east of Dolores Street and north of 20th street were consumed by flames. In 1913, construction began on a new church (now known as the Mission Dolores Basilica) adjacent to the Mission, which was completed in 1918. This structure was further remodeled in 1926 with churrigueresque ornamentation inspired by the Panama-California Exposition held in San Diego’s Balboa Park. A sensitive restoration of the original adobe Mission was undertaken in 1917 by noted architect Willis Polk. In 1952, San Francisco Archbishop John J. Mitty, announced that Pope Pius XII had elevated Mission Dolores to the status of a Minor Basilica. This was the first designation of a basilica west of the Mississippi and the fifth basilica named in the United States. Today, the larger, newer church is called “Mission Dolores Basilica” while the original adobe structure retains the name of Mission Dolores.

The San Francisco de Asís cemetery, which adjoins the property on the south side, was originally much larger than its present boundaries, running west almost to Church Street and north into what is today 16th Street. It was reduced in various stages, starting with the extension of 16th Street through the former Mission grounds in 1889, and later by the construction of the Mission Dolores Basilica Center and the Chancery Building of the Archdiocese of San Francisco in the 1950s. Some remains were reburied on-site in a mass grave, while others were relocated to various Bay Area cemeteries. Today, most of the former cemetery grounds are covered by a paved playground behind the Mission Dolores School. The cemetery that currently remains underwent a careful restoration in the mid-1990s. The Mission is still an active church in San Francisco. Many people attend services in the Mission church and even more attend mass in the adjacent basilica. The Mission is open to visitors, and is located on Dolores Street near its intersection with 16th Street. The San Francisco neighborhood closely surrounding the historic Mission is known as Mission Dolores, and the much larger Mission District is named for it as well.

Present day San Francisco is foodie paradise. It is one of the few cities in the USA with a claim to serving real food of local origin (New Orleans is another). My faithful readers will know that I have a healthy disdain for “those who know” in the U.S. mocking British food. Homegrown U.S. “cuisine” is, in general, nothing to write home about. Who wants to regale me with tales about the best hamburger ever? Or superb hot dogs? But I have no trouble admitting that there are regional cuisines of exceptional interest in the U.S. I once took a road trip from Santa Fe to Indiana, sampling the local barbecue everywhere I could. My cue from the highway was a thick galvanized chimney belching smoke, and a load of firewood stacked by the door. Such an amazing adventure – Texas, Oklahoma, Missouri, Illinois – each with local barbecue traditions. Indiana, not so much.

Rice-a-roni is NOT the San Francisco treat. But there are so many dishes to wax lyrical over. When you are in SF (not “San Fran” or “Frisco”) you are a fool to miss the Ferry Building Marketplace. I left there 2 kilos heavier when I visited. I cannot resist Recchiuti chocolates (you have to sample them one at a time, and the grapefruit and rosemary dark choc is exquisite), Far West Fungi specializing in wild mushrooms hand picked, Acme Bread Company making the best SF sourdough bread ever . . . and so much more.


For now I will go with the mission burrito, a treat that has spread over much of the U.S. My favorite food writer, Calvin Trillin, said that the mission burrito “has been refined and embellished in much the same way that the pizza has been refined and embellished in Chicago.” You might want to be careful in New York or Naples with remarks like that Calvin. But he is right about the mission burrito. Cook’s choice here. Start with a large flour tortilla, Spanish rice, and refried beans. Then you have a choice of ingredients – stewed or grilled chicken (pollo or pollo asado), grilled beef steak (carne asada), barbecued pork (al pastor) and braised shredded pork (carnitas). Or you can try pork stewed in green chile sauce (chile verde – my absolute fav), beef stewed in red chile sauce (chile colorado), Mexican sausage (chorizo), beef tongue (lengua), stewed and shredded beef (machaca), stewed beef head (cabeza), beef brain (sesos), beef eyeball (ojo), and shrimp (camarones). Or why not try birria (goat meat), camarones diablos (extra-spicy shrimp), carne deshebrada (shredded beef with red chile sauce), carne molida (ground beef), chicharrónes (fried pork rinds, stewed), barbacoa (marinated lamb), pescado (fish, usually fried or grilled tilapia and sometimes salmon), picadillo (ground beef with chopped chiles and tomatoes), mole (chicken stewed in a chile and chocolate sauce), nopales (prickly pear cactus), and tripas (beef tripe). You get your choice of salsa too. I’d go with pico de gallo, heavy on the chiles. OK – now I am hungry.


Jun 132013

AntoniusGreco17   antonio-de-pereda-st-anthony-of-padua-with-christ-child

Today is the feast day of St Anthony of Padua and Lisbon.  He’s one of those “important” saints who a lot of people know about, perhaps chiefly because he is the patron saint of lost things – so he gets prayed to quite a bit.  He devoted his life to charity, poverty, obedience, humility and service to the poor, lending and giving to the poor as regularly as he chastised the rich and powerful. My kind of saint.

So many stories have grown up around St Anthony, some of them quite wonderful, but we also know a lot of the basics about his life.  He was born in 1195 as Fernando Martins de Bulhões to a rich family in Lisbon. His family wanted him educated at the local cathedral school but, against their wishes, he entered the community of canons regular at the Abbey of St. Vincent on the outskirts of Lisbon. Canons regular, like monks, live in communities and take vows of chastity and poverty, but, unlike monks, they are ordained as priests and have a duty to work in the world, preaching, teaching, and administering the sacraments.  In 1219, on seeing the bodies of five martyred Franciscan monks being returned from Morocco for interment, he applied for and was granted permission to enter the Franciscan order.  Upon his admission to the life of the friars, he joined the small hermitage in Olivais, adopting the name Anthony (from the name of the chapel located there dedicated to St Anthony the Great).

After a series of misadventures on his way to Africa as an evangelist, he wound up in Tuscany where he was assigned to a Franciscan monastery, but, because of weakness due to a severe illness contracted on his travels, he was given the task of working in the kitchen of a hospice, and spent most of his time as a contemplative hermit.  Whilst there, on the occasion of an ordination, there was a misunderstanding as to who should preach the homily over the evening meal.  There were many visiting Dominican friars present, and, because the Dominicans were renowned for their preaching the Franciscans expected one of them to do the job.  But they protested that they were unprepared. The head of the monastery then called on Anthony to preach because he alone among the friars was educated. Anthony objected but was overruled, and his sermon created a deep impression. Not only his rich voice and arresting manner, but the entire theme and substance of his discourse and his moving eloquence, held the attention of his hearers.

At that point, Anthony was commissioned by Brother Gratian, the local Minister Provincial, to preach the gospel throughout Lombardy. In this capacity he came to the attention of the founder of the order, Francis of Assisi. Francis had held a strong distrust of the place of theological studies in the life of his brotherhood, fearing that it might lead to an abandonment of their commitment to a life of real poverty, and breed a sense of self importance. In Anthony, however, he found a kindred spirit for his vision who was also able to provide the teaching needed by young members of the order who might seek ordination. He spent much of the rest of his life preaching and teaching in France and Italy, and also served as a papal envoy.  In 1231 he became gravely ill and after a period of contemplation in a cell built for him under a walnut tree in a woodland retreat in Camposampiero in the province of Padua, he determined to return to the city of Padua . He died, at the age of 36, on the journey.

The basilica of St Anthony in the city of Padua contains his tomb and a most elaborate reliquary housing his tongue.  Both are well visited at all hours.  Last time I was in Padua and had the time to visit the basilica there was a long line of supplicants leading to his tomb that took 30 minutes to get to the tomb itself.

There are a great many traditions associated with St Anthony’s feast day.  In Portugal, for example, it is a popular day to be married because Anthony was known to be skilled at reconciling couples.  Both the eve and the day are marked by feasts and parades.  The center of Lisbon is filled with the smell of vendors grilling sardines, which are eaten with sangria.  It is also customary worldwide on his feast day to bless and dedicate lilies, symbol of purity, to his name, and he is often depicted carrying a lily. In many parts of the world devotees give food to strangers on this day, a custom which we might be well to observe all year round.

Many dishes bear the name of St Anthony, but this is my favorite from northern Italy: Zuppa di Sant’ Antonio.  It is quite simple, as befits a simple man, but also quite delicious.

Zuppa di Sant’ Antonio


4 eggs
3 tbsp (23 g) flour
¼ tsp (1 g) salt
I tsp (5 g) baking powder
2 quarts (2 l) chicken broth
1 cup (150 g) chopped fresh spinach
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
oil for deep frying


Beat the eggs.

Add the flour, baking powder, and salt and beat into a thin batter.

Heat the cooking oil to 325°F (160°C)

Drop the batter into the hot oil to form small balls. When the balls are lightly browned, remove them with a slotted spoon and drain them on a wire rack.

Bring the broth to a slow boil.

Add the batter balls and spinach and simmer until the spinach is wilted, 2 -3 minutes.

Serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Serves 6 to 8.